Honda Shadow Aero 750

Mods and How-to's

Installing Aero 1100 Tank Badges on a 750

Submitted by JD

Many of us wish that the Aero 750 came with the nice tank badges that came on the 1100. These badges are readily available in both the chrome version and the chrome/gold version. I bought the latter. The tank wall on an 1100 has a smaller radius of curvature (bigger bulge) than a 750 tank, so when you put it up against the 750 tank, there is a gap. (See photo below)

I tried to install new badges by binding them tightly to the tank with bungee cords, but after a couple of months, the double-sided sticky tape just couldn’t hold them anymore, and they began to bulge. So I removed them from the bike, then took all the sticky tape off the back.

Next, I got an adjustable clamp like a carpenter would use and a 2x8. Note that in the photo below, the tank badge is laying beside the clamp, so you can see the significant curvature.

Next, I clamped the badge to the board and tightened up the clamp until almost all the curvature was gone. (See photo below)

I then took a Black & Decker paint stripper heat gun (see photo below) and gently began to heat up the plastic. Credit goes to Booty Spanker (a respected, if somewhat irreverent member of the forum) for coming up with this suggestion.

I took care not to get the badges too hot, as you can literally melt them with this gun. You may need to experiment a little with some throw-away plastic before you start heating your expensive tank badges. I came close to liquefying one of mine…

And speaking of liquids, this heating is hot work. Right about now a bottle of Saint Arnold's Oktoberfest goes awfully good. Okay, you've applied some heat and you let the badge cool for about 20 minutes. It should be ready now. Release the clamp and see if the badge held the new shape. On one of the badges, I had to repeat and use more heat to get it right. Once something very close to I had both badges so that they had the new flatter profile, it was time to get the bike ready. First, I used rubbing alcohol to clean the tank.

My bike is the dark brown color, and I saw no reason to try to remove or cover up the stock decal. Once covered with the badge, the only parts of the decal that stick out look like flames or decoration. Those with light colored tanks may need to do a little more work (such as applying other decals to cover up the stock decal). Okay…time to clean the side of the tank.

Now I want to go ahead and get my bungee cords positioned. I'm going to use silicone sealant to glue the badges to the tank, and I'll need to use bungee cords (or some similar method) to hold the badges tightly to the tank while the glue dries. See the cord positioning that I used below. You can be creative…there are many places to anchor a cord and many angles you can use.

It's now time for the glue. Be sure to use the clear color. In the photo below, you can see the back of one of the badges (with the original double-sided tape removed), flatter and ready to go, back behind the tube of sealant.

Next, apply some sealant to the back of the badge. I'll let you decide how much. This photo shows what I used.

It's now the moment of truth. It's best to have someone helping you, as they can pull out the bungee cords while you slip the badge into place. I found that some of the alcohol on a paper towel helped with the cleanup of any smeared glue. The photo below shows the badge glued in place with the bungee cords holding it. Be sure there are no gaps, and if there are, go get some more bungee cords.

The manufacturer of the glue says to allow the silicone sealant 24 hours to set up. I followed their advice. Below you can see the final result.

Note that on my bike, you hardly see the old decal, and your eyes are so drawn to the badge, that you ignore what is there. On light colored bikes, you may need to put a colored decal around the badge to cover up what shows of the decal.

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