Submitted by NW05Aero
During the install I ran into 2 problems. It would have been only 1 had I tested the fit first. Except for that, it is very easy and almost a strait bolt on. For those that would like to do this, the first thing to understand is it is NOT cheap unless you are able to find a used headlight and even then, expect to pay a hefty price.
The needed parts:
* You can use the one from the old light
** You can get them out of the old light
Using your old parts can save $11.15
To mount the headlight, you will also need to make 2 brackets. I used about 2" of 1.1/4 X 1/16 aluminum strip to make them along with a pair of nuts and bolts that are at least 1/4" longer then the stock headlight mounting bolts.
A small chunk of 1/8" thick plexi glass or plastic washers. Headlight bulb (Again, you can use the one you already have)
Next - aim your existing headlight before going further.
Once you have the parts in hand and your tools ready, it's time to remove the old headlight.
With the bike upright on its wheels (off the side or center stand) and your weight in the seat, have a helper measure the distance from the floor to the center of the headlight lens.
Pick a flat wall where you can locate the bike on level ground so the headlight is 17 feet from the wall. Place a horizontal mark on the wall two (2) inches lower than the height of the center of the headlight.
With you again sitting in the seat adjust the vertical screw (usually at the very top or very bottom of a headlight next to the lens but inside a trim ring) so the flat top of the low beam is just to the line you put on the wall (a two inch drop at 17 feet).
The horizontal adjustment (screw will be on the left or right side of the headlight lens) should center the beam ahead of the line of the bike.
Now we can start.
Use the 8mm socket to remove the side bolts from the headlight ring, rotate the bottom up and pull down to remove the ring/lamp assembly.
Disconnect the lamp plug and set the assembly aside.
Due to the size of the old headlight case, disconnect the plugs and pull the relay off the hook. This will help when removing the case.
Grab your 12mm wrench and socket. Use the wrench on the top and the socket under the lower triple tree,
Undo the 2 bolts holding on the front turn signal/headlight bracket. (If you are going to change your signals, add a light bar etc, this would be a good time to do it all) Put one of the bolts back into one of the holes to hold the turn signals up.
The headlight is missing in the photo to help point out the bolts. Once the nuts are removed, feed the wires out the back of the headlight case.
You should have this in your hand ready to strip parts off for your new headlight.
If you DID NOT buy "Screw, Tap" p/n 93903-24380 Remove the 2 screws for the wire wraps.
Remove the rubber bushings. You will need the steel sleeves so set them aside.
If you DID NOT buy the Rubber cover p/n 33180-MR7-003, remove the rubber cover. You should have a pile of parts like this.
At this point, assemble the headlight stay with the case and the Headlight unit with the rim. Use the "Special screws" to attach the stay with the case.
Use the "Screw, Tap" and 1 "Screw" p/n 90380-GE2- 760 to attach the unit with the rim.
The 2 taps for inside tabs and the big flat screw on the bottom.
Install the rubber bushings into the new headlight.
The ones with the flange goes in the back mounting hole.
TIP - use a little dish soap to insert them easer.
Attach the headlight bracket using a factory bolt in the front hole.
It was at this point where I made a mistake. The back hole does not line up with the case. This in itself is not a big problem.
At the time I opened up the back to fit the bolt through.
DO NOT GRIND OUT THE BRACKET or you will not be able to correctly adjust the headlight height.
Instead, take the strip of aluminum, cut out 2 squares, drill one hole about 1/4" from one corner using the 1/4" drill bit then shape it to fit like this.
Once it sits flush on the headlight bracket, (you will have a gap between the headlight and the new strap) insert a bolt through the strap and into the bushing.
Allow the bolt to rest on top of the headlight bracket and use a punch or anything you might have around to mark, from the inside, the bottom edge of the adjustment slot. Remove the strap and using that mark as the outer edge, drill a 3/8" hole. TIP: Make one first, then tape the other one to it and use it as a guide when shaping.
After making the straps, install them with a bolt in the lower (3/8") hole, trim up the plastic washers (or fashion spacers with plexi glass) so that the upper bolt sits flush on the top of the headlight bracket.
You can now tighten all 3 bolts. Re-assemble at this point is the reverse.
Feed the wire through the back of the case, install the 12mm bolts through the headlight/turn-signal brackets and tighten.
NOTE: Be careful when feeding the turn-signal wires. You can cause a short. Make sure that they feed in through the front of the headlight bracket, under both bolts and up between the back of the headlight bracket and the rear case mount. You’re almost done.
Take the headlight rim/unit assembly, install a bulb and "Rubber cover" p/n 33180-MR7- 003.
If you have not upgraded to a Silverstar bulb, now would be a good time.
Plug in the assembly. Unlike the old headlight, this unit has a tab on the bottom that fits into a slot in the front of the case.
Insert this tab then rotate up and use the remaing 2 "Screw"s p/n 90380-GE2-760 on the inside top of the rim. Now after going through all this, I didn't know if the light would be even close to where it should be as there is no real room for adjustment. As luck would have it there is the horizontal adjustment AND a vertical.
Looking up at the headlight, you will see 2 small holes. The bike’s left is the horizontal and the right is vertical.
Roll the bike back to where you marked your light. Line up as close as you can to where you were. Turn on your light and make your adjustments. First while it is on the stand to get it close, then upright. Thats it.
Now the Aero has a cyclops eye.
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